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a place to talk about custom, restoration, tips and trickson classic trucks.
Latest Activity: Dec 31, 2014
Started by Mauricius Helio Wegner. Last reply by Mauricius Helio Wegner Mar 3, 2013.
Started by Steve G. Last reply by Steve G Nov 18, 2011.
Started by Bryce GRIFFITH. Last reply by Steve G Oct 30, 2011.
I am assuming you are running a 360 FE in your 250. 3" is for 550 hp & up from what I read. A stock 360 should be just fine with 2" pipes. It just doesn't have enough compression in it to fill 2" pipes to capacity let alone 3". Just my $.02
les back pressure can help performance.
I need to replace the pipes and mufflers on my 68 F250. Currently, the pipes are about 2 inches in diameter. Is there any benefits, or problems, if I install bigger (3 inch) pipes and muffler without replacing the current exhaust manifolds? The exhaust manifolds are in good shape and I don't want to replace them. I don't want to pay for bigger pipes if there is no benefit to doinog it. Thanks.
"looks like I will not get to finish my project of 1948 F-1 Ford Pickup. I have found out that I have a rare form of Parkinsons."
Thank you Robert, This is my first build, I'm a novice when it come to fabricating, and have some ok mech. skills, so any advice I get will be helpful and well used. and thanks for the tip on the old parts.
Oh, by the way William, get a case of liquid wrench. You're gonna need it. These parts have been together for decades and they like where they're at and won't want to give it up.
William, that looks like a good project. Congratulations. Without knowing your background in fabrication or mechanics, it's hard to give advice. I will say this though. One comment you made should dictate one idea. No matter who does the work, don't throw anything away and make sure that all parts that are removed are removed intact and bagged and tagged and boxed up for future resale. You can find enthusiests out there who will be looking for original parts for their trucks. There should be a forum out there. You may have to do a little research as to how to disassemble various assemblies, but in the end you will thank yourself. Case in point, my cousin removed my horn button from my '39 Dodge and in the process broke it. A good used one complete on ebay sold for $60. Even original bolts may be of worth to the right person doing a restoration.
Thank you Steve & Robert planing on keeping it a 1tn. The truck is mostly there except for a couple of engine parts which are hard to find. and no bed. I am hoping I can us what's all ready there. I added a pic below to show whats there already. thank you again.
William I am with Robert on this one. I read when I was young that you can do anything you want to an automobile. All it takes is money. The largest problem you will have to overcome is engine length. Chrysler engines are long from nose to rear. Not sure what you are thinking for front suspension. Keeping it a 1tn or building a street truck? If going street a MII kit from somebody reputable like TCI would be a nice option. The crossmember has a small footprint & you end up with rack & pinion steering. I think Robert is going to have "fun" getting his steering set up but that's what he wants so he will overcome it. I have seen it done on a '34 Plymouth PE Sedan so it's not impossible. If you want to use this truck as a 1tn I think I would shop for a late model frame and make body/frame mods to get the body mounted to it. A few thoughts from the mind of a madman. ;)
Hey, William. One thing I'm learning is that if you want it done, it can be done. I'm going to use a cross member and suspension from a '78 Aspen 'Super Coup" in my '39 Dodge truck. It means removing the '39 cross member, notching the frame for the steering box and reconstructing the radiator support, but it will go. In any case, no matter what you want to go with, you will have to do some measuring of where everything is at. You might be suprised to find out how easy or it will be. Keep us posted of your progress and good luck.
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