If you decide to go that route, let me know. I have a few tricks that will not show up on any shift kit instructions. Would be glad to share with you. Did you discuss the issues with the bulider ?
The shift linkage is still manual on what is called the rooster comb under the pan. This is what created the detent feel of the different gears. With everything hooked up in place, (trans crossmsmber ) so it is siiting at its normal angle.
Put the trans in drive using the shifter. remove the cable from the trans linkage lever. Manually shift the lever on the terans all the way down in low. Then move each detent back to the "D" position. The cable should line up perfectly with the hole in the trans linkage. If not, you will have to adjust the cable. Manual valvev position is very important in any automatic. You can also try adjusting in the "L" position,
by moving the ratchet shifter in L, and trans linkage in L, it has to line up without moving one or the other. Be sure to check park after adjustments, this is manual linkage as well,
try to push the car by hand to make sure the parking pawl is locked. Let me know how it works. If your using a TV cable from the trans to the throttle, this adjustment is CRITICAL for line pressure and shift points. Let me know how it works.
Hi Jake, sorry it took me so long to respond. Looks like you already have an answer. The guy who did my tranny said it sounds like did some serious damage but without seeing it he can't say for sure. Let me know what you find out.
Hi Jake,
That's close to the limit of a 700R4 - the weak link is the forward drum which sounds like what let go. No one I know of makes a hardened drum. Looks like your going to have to take it out and inspect the forward drum and surrounding components like the sprag clutch.
If your looking for an overdrive unit and no computer, the 2004R is a better unit with less RPM drop between gears.
Of course you need to find high performance parts for these units as well. Some of the twin turbo buicks are running these units with 1000 HP. Of course the budget always dictates your direction. If an overdrive is not your main direction, turbo 350's and 400's if built correctly, can withstand 600 horses without fancy aftermarket hard parts other than sprag assemblies and good clutches and steels, with clearances set correctly. I have been working with automatics for almost 30 years now and would be happy to give you info on my experiencees.
sway bar kit is kick ass from cpp and with the dropped tube a-arms it feels like a sports car i have pulled madd!! donuts in it and there was no lean what so ever it was kinda scary
both street n strip i also have to use it for work till i get something else, all i did is put 71-72 front spindles/disc brakes it should fit on stock a-arms i got all my stuff from brotherstrucks and cpp got the brake booster kit from cpp works well ,brotherstrucks sells cross drilled drums for the rear so there is no need to spend the money on rear discs con. i even got a small booster like a old nova upgraded booster much smaller gives lost more room and cleaner. truck boosters are big hope this will help
No it;s a hydroboost brake unit it runs off the power steering insted of vacum the power booster wouldn;t fit. also the wiper motor would make it hard to get the valve cover off so I found one at Detroit speed and engineering that would work also it;s a 7 speet with 4 intermitent speed's
Yeah, I never even considered the ratios. Should be a good setup. Keep me posted when it's finished give me some 1/4 mi. ets. My buddy has a 64, I showed him your pics to give him some incentive to finish his.
454 500hp roller cam merlin cylinder heads edelbrock air gap perfomer manifold msd ignition march pully system hooker ceramic coated headers tci street fighter turbo 400 ford 9" with strange 35 spline axels and spool.
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Checking to see if you ever got the trans issues sorted out ?
Fitz
Put the trans in drive using the shifter. remove the cable from the trans linkage lever. Manually shift the lever on the terans all the way down in low. Then move each detent back to the "D" position. The cable should line up perfectly with the hole in the trans linkage. If not, you will have to adjust the cable. Manual valvev position is very important in any automatic. You can also try adjusting in the "L" position,
by moving the ratchet shifter in L, and trans linkage in L, it has to line up without moving one or the other. Be sure to check park after adjustments, this is manual linkage as well,
try to push the car by hand to make sure the parking pawl is locked. Let me know how it works. If your using a TV cable from the trans to the throttle, this adjustment is CRITICAL for line pressure and shift points. Let me know how it works.
That's close to the limit of a 700R4 - the weak link is the forward drum which sounds like what let go. No one I know of makes a hardened drum. Looks like your going to have to take it out and inspect the forward drum and surrounding components like the sprag clutch.
If your looking for an overdrive unit and no computer, the 2004R is a better unit with less RPM drop between gears.
Of course you need to find high performance parts for these units as well. Some of the twin turbo buicks are running these units with 1000 HP. Of course the budget always dictates your direction. If an overdrive is not your main direction, turbo 350's and 400's if built correctly, can withstand 600 horses without fancy aftermarket hard parts other than sprag assemblies and good clutches and steels, with clearances set correctly. I have been working with automatics for almost 30 years now and would be happy to give you info on my experiencees.
Fitz
Especially the burnout pics.
I posted more pics Enginr,interior and rear end
have a look when you can
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