hey thanks, my dime has a very under powered 4 banger its all i need low and slow.im looking for a hard tonneau cover. i think i might go with the gaylord speedster cover . and the ss style front bumper. it looks like we have the same style, thats cool. whats your plans for yours? it looks like you have it all. are you going to bag it? ill talk to you soon thanks again
William,pertaining to your run on of your engine known as (DIESELING)it may be caused by several factors.Chilton list 4 possibilities it could be:A)excessive engine temp(change ya thermostat to 180),; B)Excessive carbon build up(retard timming...-maybe 2):.(c)Fuel injection malfunction(add 1small bottle to full tank of gas of Lucas gas treatment).:;(d)Ignition system malfuction(Check/replace coil)heres what I'd do if it was mine; add a small bottle of Lucas gas treatment to a full tank First ;..then check your timing you may have to advance it .when you shut it off it is not burning off all the fuel in the combustion chambers so your truck still runs ,you may also try revving your truck up one or two times just before turning the key off to force it to burn the excess fuel out.I'd say its your timeing keep my posted & good luck
Hey William,
Got your e-mail and added you as a friend. Would like to take my suggestion a little deeper with respect to your engine run-on situation.
You mentioned that you did not build the engine, so, lets assume that the original builder may have taken a short cut or two.
Assuming that you continue to have the run on issue, start by ensuring that there are at least two (2) ground straps running from the engine to the frame rail. Part Number C-2479-1B through National Parts Depot.com is for a set of three (3). Use the third strap to run a final ground from a bellhousing bolt to the lower side of the firewall.
Minor modification of the strap eyelet may be required to accomodate the bellhousing bolt diameter.
You also mentioned that your ignition runs through a toggle switch. Normally, this switch would be mounted either on the dash or on a seperate stand alone switch panel. Many Technicians take a short cut and fail to ensure that the switch is properly grounded. It may be in your best interest to ensure that the switch is grounded to the dash as well.
I have ran across this issue many times over the years and have found that a high resistance situation between the engine and switches to ground has been the cause more times than not.
Give it a try... It is a $20.00 fix and it will likely fix your problem.
If not...give me a shout and I can help you with the next step in diagnostics. It will require either a D.V.O.M. or analog style method to check resistance and voltage.
You were asking about a run on situation with the ignition off,
The most common problem is a bad ground, but, sometimes, the ignition switch may be the issue. Try running a DVOM for resistance from the battery to a ground and check for a draw. You can also rig a temporary ignition switch from Auto Zone or wherever and see if the issue resolves itself. If so, replace the ignition switch and your done. If you need any further help, send me a note. Good Luck
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Got your e-mail and added you as a friend. Would like to take my suggestion a little deeper with respect to your engine run-on situation.
You mentioned that you did not build the engine, so, lets assume that the original builder may have taken a short cut or two.
Assuming that you continue to have the run on issue, start by ensuring that there are at least two (2) ground straps running from the engine to the frame rail. Part Number C-2479-1B through National Parts Depot.com is for a set of three (3). Use the third strap to run a final ground from a bellhousing bolt to the lower side of the firewall.
Minor modification of the strap eyelet may be required to accomodate the bellhousing bolt diameter.
You also mentioned that your ignition runs through a toggle switch. Normally, this switch would be mounted either on the dash or on a seperate stand alone switch panel. Many Technicians take a short cut and fail to ensure that the switch is properly grounded. It may be in your best interest to ensure that the switch is grounded to the dash as well.
I have ran across this issue many times over the years and have found that a high resistance situation between the engine and switches to ground has been the cause more times than not.
Give it a try... It is a $20.00 fix and it will likely fix your problem.
If not...give me a shout and I can help you with the next step in diagnostics. It will require either a D.V.O.M. or analog style method to check resistance and voltage.
Good luck and get back with me on this subject
Kingman Kid
Jerry
The most common problem is a bad ground, but, sometimes, the ignition switch may be the issue. Try running a DVOM for resistance from the battery to a ground and check for a draw. You can also rig a temporary ignition switch from Auto Zone or wherever and see if the issue resolves itself. If so, replace the ignition switch and your done. If you need any further help, send me a note. Good Luck
Kingman Kid
jerrybrothekid@yahoo.com
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