Network for PowerBlock fans
anyone looking to give advice ,show pictures of there projects in progress and
hotrod tech ...
Latest Activity: Jul 20
Started by jason deussen. Last reply by Keith Baumgarner May 18.
Started by Russell A. Sweet Jan 31.
Started by paul emmon Nov 10, 2012.
took the car out for the first car event of the year this last Friday 77*
it was perfect start off for the season.
Fastback Nova's ...never knew they existed.
I finally got the 327 pulled out of my Austin gasser, and torn down. #8 rod bearing spun, and crank ruined beyond repair. Seems the metallurgy on the timing set was bad, and in about 5,000 miles it had worn to the point that it looked like 100,000 miles of wear! All the metal wearing away went through the bearings and wiped them out!
I purchased a 4 bolt main 350 from a friend, and am having it bored, crank turned, align bored, polished, balanced, and all new pistons, rods, and ARP rod bolts. Putting a Crower cam in with a little longer duration than my old cam. 280/280, .474"/.468" lift, and 112 LSA. I'll have it degreed in and set up with a new Cloyes timing set.
One other thin Jim. If you wanted to replicate the "roll bar" brace that goes behind the driver's head, you can put a bar straight across side to side, before cutting out that roll bar.
The '84 Corvette has a full frame under it, so no need to brace anywhere while removing the windshield posts, or roof pillars. It will sit just fine without those pieces as long as the frame is not disturbed.
I got this 84 vette for the frame and independant suspension.
I totaly disassembled it and going to restore JUST the chasis and suspension.
My question (s) :
If I brace along the center pillar (across the behind the seat area) can I cut the roof pillars off?
I also want to cut the windshield pillars off.
My goal is to make a roadster type (62 vette, or cobra lookalike)
And I just got more work added to my winter list Saturday! Driving my Austin gasser down the freeway when I heard a knock in the engine. Yesterday I did some diagnosis on it, and after pulling plug wires, and adjusting valves to cut out cylinders, I narrowed the noise down to #8 cylinder. It went away when I tightened the valves down enough to not close, which removes compression from the cylinder and stopped the knock. Looks like a rod bearing or wrist pin, but wont know until I tear it down and pull #8 piston assembly.
"Comment by Ryan Harter 9 minutes ago
Vall, well if the pictures you posted are not the original paint I sure can't tell."
Yes Ryan, it was repainted something very close to original sometime in it's life. The problem is the right side door and front fender were burnt, and dented. The car was near a house fire and burnt, and then a new front fender was put on it that was not perfect. So now I'm fixing the bad repairs, plus doing the work on the rear radius I put on the new rear wheelwell openings.
Lots of options on the 351W and you can build the earlier block quite a ways towards big cubic inches. Here's a few places on the internet that have good answers to your question, and maybe some other options that can still develop huge power without going quite as big. Plenty of great reading! Your shorter block might not be the best choice for a 408, but it can be done. You can make a killer 377 engine though, and still have it very streetable.
Vall, well if the pictures you posted are not the original paint I sure can't tell. I love the greenish/blue color! Red Barchetta: I don't know that engine combination from an egg beater, but it sounds powerful. I suggest searching for some Ford discussion boards, or engine builders boards if you are not able to get an answer here. Possibly Summit, JEGS, or an aftermarket provider like trick flow, holley, comp cams, etc might be able to either help you or turn you onto the people that can help.
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