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Pro-street full size trucks


Pro-street full size trucks

Any that is, or going to pro street a full size truck. Any make, model, or year is welcome.

Members: 21
Latest Activity: Sep 30, 2013

Discussion Forum

HELP !!!!

Started by BIG SAMM Nov 17, 2010.

Rears 1 Reply

Started by Anthony. Last reply by Jeremy Aug 3, 2010.

Loss a Legend 3 Replies

Started by Anthony. Last reply by Anthony Feb 25, 2010.

Comment Wall


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Comment by Steve on December 6, 2010 at 4:41pm
This summer I hope I can lower my truck 2", and do some body work.
Comment by Steve on November 26, 2010 at 1:51pm

It took time to get it right, but it looking good now.
Comment by Steve on November 26, 2010 at 1:48pm
Got the new hood scoop on, and liking it.
Comment by BIG SAMM on November 17, 2010 at 11:29pm

I need help to find a local shop to build and install OR a crate motor with 500WHP MOTOR and


I have a 4L80 tranny

Comment by Steve on November 4, 2010 at 5:46am
Go the new hood on and liking it.
Comment by Joe on April 16, 2010 at 3:43pm
Joe Hankins
1975 Chevy C10

Here is my daily driven pro street swb pickup that I have had since 9-11-2002. The GM Gypsy Red cab and bed sits on a c-notched stock frame. The 12 bolt truck rear-end has been narrowed to 44" and filled with Moser axles, c-clip eliminators, 4.56 gears, and a spool. A 4-link, panhard bar, coil-overs, Wilwood disc brakes, and 31 x 18.50 Hoosier Pro-Street Radials mounted on 15 x 14 Convo Pros finish things up out back. Up front there are drop spindles, springs, and shocks along with P255/6OR15 on 15 x 8 Convo Pros. A 4" tube driveshaft connects the rear to a TH 400 with a manual/reverse value body, trans brake, and a 3500 stall. Under the hood is a 383. The block has been decked, aligned bored, and studded. Internals are an Eagle forged crank, Crower Sportsman Stroker rods, and Arias 8:1 pistons with everything balanced and the pistons fitted to each bore. Since this is for street driving, a mild Isky hydralic blower cam was used. World Sportsman heads finish up the short block. For the induction system I decided to go all out, a Weiand 671 blower with a BDS 8-injector bugcatcher for the final touch. Makes 10 lbs of boost. Fuel and spark is controlled by a classic FAST ecu. Ignition is MSD. Fuel system has had the needed upgrade as well. And since I do drive her everyday, 92 octane pump gas is all she is fed. The interior is fairly stock. The bench seats and column shifter are still in use. Most of the gauges have been replaced with Autometer gauges. A Kenwood receiver, 2 Orion amps and crossover, Orion coaxles and tweeters in the doors, and 2 Orion Extreme 10" woofers behind the the seat make up the stereo system. She is a blast to drive and I will never tire of the attention she draws or the inquisitive questions from the people we encounter.

Comment by mmartinfan5 on December 3, 2009 at 8:40pm
Hey Midknight,with your truck being a c20(3/4 ton) it should have a 12 bolt under it already. Maybe with a limited slip. So it should be able to handle your upgrades,with mileage being in question. With a 700R4,I would recommend 3.73's
They would give excellent take off and decent fuel milage on the highway.
And as with what Carl said on checking the ratio,I agree. Also check to see if the i.d tag is attached to the rearend. It will give all the info.
Comment by Carl on October 23, 2009 at 9:59pm
How's it goin Steve, long time no chat man, give me a call sometime.
Comment by Carl on October 23, 2009 at 9:58pm
Oh yeah, and if your only interested in speed and not strength (for towing and stuff that is lol) I would recomend going with a mediocer gear like a 3:55;1 or something, with your overdrive, that should keep your rpms down to reasonable on the highway, but still let you get off of the line plenty quick lol.
Comment by Carl on October 23, 2009 at 9:56pm
Hey Midnight, I just signed in and read your post about the rear in your truck, let's see if this helps you any. From what I understood there you have a 2:55;1 gear ratio right now and you want to know for sure. Well there are a bunch of different ways to do this, but one of the best I know of without takin the pumkin cover off and exposing the gears, is to support the rear of the truck on jack stands and with the trans in neutral take some chalk and make a line on both the drive shaft and the inside of one of the rear tires. Then simply turn the tire until you get one full revolution while counting the revolutions of the drive shaft and that will get you close. For example, if it is a 2:55;1 like you are thinkin, then the drive shaft will turn approximately two and a half times for one full revolution of the rear end. As far as if it's up to the extra ponies or not, without a tear down and inspection I couldn't tell you how to be sure. But as a good rule of thumb I always use on that one, if it has high miles on it you might want to consider an upgrade to it as well. But you could always build up your engine and not run it to awfully hard until you could get it done. As long as you aint jerkin it around it should carry you for a while till you can get it checked to see, or get an upgrade done to it. If you wanted to build one and stay chevy with it, you could always find a 12 bolt rear outta the bone yard for your year truck and build it with a good posi, and maybe a c-clip eliminator kit for safety. Good luck with it man, and I hope this helps you.


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