CLASSIC CAR RESTORATIONS

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CLASSIC CAR RESTORATIONS

An open group for those interested in restoring classic cars. Both professionals and do-it-yourselfers can share photos, advice, and techniques.

Members: 252
Latest Activity: Feb 16

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Comment by Chiseum Dent on January 23, 2012 at 12:45pm

Hey Richard we use to be almost neighbors. Over the summer i transfered to Texas Tech in Lubbock, Tx and I just got my account on here working again so i haven't had a chance to update my account. To bad tho I've run through caddo Mills a few times before going to car events I could have stopped by.

Comment by Clarence Converse on January 23, 2012 at 11:41am

I'd have to double check but I kind of remember that there were some that were ink marked. I'll try to verify that. A major issue during that time was that completed cars might sit on the lot at Shelby, but then when a specific customer ordered car came to be built, if the parts needed were not avail. parts were taken off the completed cars to build the customer cars. Thus "completed" cars ended up getting shipped off to dealerships with parts missing. Thus the theory that the Z designation insured that the car was indeed complete and ready to be shipped off. BTW this is only on the '67's as far as I know.

Comment by DON THOMAS on January 23, 2012 at 9:58am

still here..just not as much..iv moved since last time we have spoke..live in PA. LOL...

anyway

have a great day..i'll still need to go back to wisconsin for the ol'red truck ..if that other woman lets me..hahahaha...new life here.in towanda pa..

 

Comment by richard taeger on January 23, 2012 at 9:34am

hey thanks mr.cheak for taking the time to help me out,i will give you a call today. 

Comment by Classic Car Ron on January 23, 2012 at 9:19am

Thanks, Clarence. I had never heard about the Z designation on Shelby's and was just curious. It's stamped in the Vin tag? Then I would not think it was a quality control completion mark. That would usually be an ink marking. If they waited to put the tag on upon completion why would it need a special marking, right? Now we've got my curiosity aroused even more! LOL

Comment by Clarence Converse on January 22, 2012 at 10:40pm

Hey Ron, in answer to your comment "Clarence- Fill us in on the Z designation on your Shelby." There have over the years been all kinds of theories as to what the Z stood for in the Shelby vin tag. Everything from it meaning a particular zone of the US to Zorro running around marking the cars. Per the latest Shelby registry it says "although not confirmed, it is believed to be some type of a quality control mark indicating that the car was complete in all respects and ready for shipment". We may never know for sure. Just one more of the many Shelby production mysteries.

Comment by Richard cheak on January 22, 2012 at 5:35pm

Richard, this might help. http://www.moclamp.com/7400%20manual.pdf

Comment by Richard cheak on January 22, 2012 at 5:13pm

972-983-1467. Call me anytime.

Comment by richard taeger on January 22, 2012 at 5:04pm

WHAT I HAVE IS A 74 VETTE,I HAVE THE FRAME DIMENSIONS FROM CHEVY ON THE CAR,HOW CLOSE ARE THESE CARS TO THE FACTORY DIMENSIONS? I HAVE A DIGETAL TRAM GAUGE BY ALLVISE LIGHT AND CENTERLINE GAUGES,THE CENTERLINE GAUGES ARE A PAIN IN THE REAR,I HAVE WORKED WITH THEM SEVERAL HOURS WITH NO SUCCESE IN GETTING THE PINS TO LINE UP,I HAVE THE CAR LEVEL AND OFF THE GROUND ON CINDER BLOCKS,I TRAMED THE MEASURMENTS AND MOST SEEM TO BE REAL CLOSE OR WITHIN 1/8 OR 3MM.BUT A FEW ARE OFF,I KNOW THE PASS FRONT LOWER BALL JOINT MEASURMENT IS OFF 1/2 INCH AND THE FRONT FRAME HORNS ARE OFF IN MEASURMENT AS WELL,BUT THE FRAME LENGHT AND X CHECKING ARE CHECKING OUT TO BE OK,WHY ARE THESE CENTERLINE GAUGES NOT SHOWING A TRUE CENTER LINE. AS THAT IS MEASURMENT I CAN NOT GET,IS THERE ANOTHER WAY TO CHECK CENTER LINE MEASURMENTS THAT IS FARLEY QUICK TO TELL ME IF MY CENTERLINE IS GOOD.AND IS THERE A GOOD WAY TO CHECK THE DATUM ON THIS FRAME? OR AM I BEING TO PICKY.I WANT TO PULL THE BODY OFF THE FRAME,BUT I WANT TO MAKE SURE IT WILL BOLT BACK ON RIGHT AFTER I FINISH MY WORK AND PUT THE BODY BACK ON THE FRAME.ANY WAY THANKS MUCH IF YOU CAN HELP AND YOUR TIME,IF YOU HAVE A PHONE NUMBER I WOULD LIKE TO CHAT ABOUT IT. RICHARD

Comment by Richard cheak on January 22, 2012 at 1:31pm

Richard, the best way is using the'X" method. On the frame rails you will find h***s that are in the same position on both sides. Using a tape measure, you will pick a set of four h***s and measure crisscrossing from front h*** on one side to rear h*** on opposite side. then measure the opposing corner and they should be  the same +-!/4". Hope this helps.

 

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