60's mustangs

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Comment by Matt Nichols 1 day ago

Well you have a few options.
First off figure out what exactly is rusted though or out. Best way is to use a large screw driver or pic and really hit/ stab the areas with some pressure. If its bad, it will go through.
If its not a big area, you can patch it by cleaning it off with a flap wheel or sanding disc, then just welding over the area with another piece of steel, at least 1/16 thick. Then just clean it up again and shoot it with some enamle paint.
If its not worth saving or the area is too big, I would recommend replacing the subframe.
Some of the many sources which carry full or partial rear sub frames are -
http://mustangsplus.com/xcart/home.php?cat=2849

http://mustangsunlimited.com/SubCat.asp?CatKey=EMUSTANG&SubCategory=Frame+Rails&category=Body&KeyWords=EMC20

https://www.paddockparts.com/Paddock/dept.asp?dept%5Fid=23&gift=False&0=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D3%26menu%5Fid%3D%26Tree%3D%2CMustang&mscssid=3E3F663462B84720BBF84C78628BFC27

Just depends on what you want to spend (full or partial). Of course with replacing the sub frame, you will have to drop your suspension on that side or off completely. If you go that route, remember to mark the original location of the sub frame with a cut off wheel so when you clean/ sand down the area and remove the old sub frame, the mark is still there. Just dont go through the floor/ trunk, just a nic will do. I would also recommend not taking the old one off until the new one comes in the mail so you can do a mock up.
Then again, if your going to have a shop do it, I would still hold off till the new one comes in so they can do a mock up.
Lastly, if your doing it yourself, have a good welder and take the gas tank out before you start.

Comment by Carhugger on November 18, 2009 at 8:49pm

I think it is the subframe I haven't checked lately and rusted

Comment by Matt Nichols on November 17, 2009 at 6:51pm

Is it the rear sub frame or part of the paneling?
Is it rusted, broke???

Comment by Matt Nichols on November 17, 2009 at 6:12pm

What exactly needs to be replaced/ fixed?

Comment by Carhugger on November 17, 2009 at 5:18pm

What do you suggest on fixing the frame on other side of the gas tank cause I have no idea?

Comment by Matt Nichols on November 16, 2009 at 7:29pm

I re-did my flooring and the trunk flooring, just used stock steel for the trunk and braced it up with 90 degree 1/4 inch thick angle brackets along the tail light pannel, works pretty good and im not going for a 100 point concours correct build, so it works for me

Comment by Carhugger on November 16, 2009 at 5:23pm

Mine is in some good condition. I need to replace most of the things in the front. But I am able to reuse the hood hinges, the grill, the front bumper, the front lights, the steering system, and that is it. Then I have to replace most of the flooringin the cab and the the trunk. It needs new fuel and brake lines. Then update the suspension (of course). While I am down there fix part if the frame on other side of the gas tank. Then besides paint I am good.

Comment by Matt Nichols on November 15, 2009 at 10:08pm

I can relate, I got the 67 back in Nov 06 and am just now getting it done. The engine has been built since 04/05.
I probably wont have the thing done and driveable for another year or two, frequent deployments like to interupt the process.

Comment by Eddie Emerson on November 15, 2009 at 9:43pm

very nice... I'm finally getting the 289 out of my 68. Taking the engine & tranny out together. I'm just gonna pressure wash it for now, in the winter I'll paint it and maybe throw some shorty headers on there. Although I don't see the engine going back in for another 10 months or so.

Comment by Matt Nichols on November 15, 2009 at 2:39pm

It will be a combination of dark charcoal grey and 2007 Ford tungeston grey with two lemans stripes that dont quite go to the tail or nose. Interior will be black.
Got 4 pics on the page, if I did it right, mainly the media blasting.
Other mods include a grab-a-track front and rear suspension upgrade, front disc conversion, sub frames, 347/ C4 combo, A/C delete, drip rails smoothed over and the cowel will be sealed up (no heater either, not a winter car).

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